When people think of agave spirits, tequila is usually the first (and sometimes only) one that comes to mind. With its global fame, protected designation, and tightly controlled production rules, tequila has become synonymous with Mexican spirit culture. But tequila is only part of the story.
Across Mexico’s rugged mountains, deserts, and coastal highlands, a diverse array of traditional agave-based spirits have been produced for centuries—many long before tequila ever hit the scene. Among them, raicilla, bacanora, and sotol are regional treasures finally gaining the attention they deserve.
These spirits are earthy, complex, deeply regional, and often produced in small batches using ancestral methods passed down through generations. Exploring them is like discovering the soul of Mexican terroir—one sip at a time.
Let’s dive into what makes each of these spirits unique, how they’re made, and why they’re worth discovering.
Raicilla: The Smoky Secret of Jalisco’s Coast
Raicilla (rye-SEE-ya) comes from the western side of Jalisco, the very same state as tequila. But instead of the familiar blue Weber agave used in tequila, raicilla is typically made from wild agave species like Agave maximiliana, inaequidens, or rhodacantha—each offering distinct flavors and aromas.
What Makes It Unique:
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Production regions: Primarily the Sierra and Costa regions of Jalisco.
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Distillation: Often done using clay or copper stills; sometimes Filipino-style “wooden stills” in coastal areas.
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Flavor: Raicilla tends to be fruity, vegetal, and slightly smoky, though styles vary widely depending on the region and agave.
Traditionally considered a “moonshine” of sorts, raicilla was long produced under the radar, hidden from federal regulation. It wasn’t until 2019 that it gained Denomination of Origin (DO) status, giving official recognition to its authenticity and cultural value.
If mezcal is a symphony of smoke and earth, raicilla is its funkier cousin—wilder, less polished, and often more expressive.
Bacanora: The Desert’s Fiery Elixir
In the arid hills of Sonora, in northern Mexico, lives bacanora, a spirit once outlawed and now reclaimed as a symbol of regional pride. Like tequila and mezcal, bacanora is made from agave—in this case, primarily Agave angustifolia, a species native to the Sonoran highlands.
A Spirit with a Rebel Past:
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Prohibition: Bacanora production was banned from 1915 to 1992 by the Mexican government due to fears of social unrest and “moral degradation.”
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Underground survival: Despite the ban, local producers kept the tradition alive in secret, distilling at night and hiding stills in caves.
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Legal revival: The ban was lifted in the 1990s, and bacanora received DO status in 2000.
Characteristics:
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Flavor: Earthy, herbaceous, and subtly smoky, bacanora is less smoky than most mezcals but more robust than tequila.
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Fermentation: Typically done in open-air vats using natural yeast.
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Distillation: Often in stainless steel or copper stills, though traditional clay methods still exist.
Today, bacanora is experiencing a renaissance, with new brands emerging that honor its legacy while adapting to modern markets.
Sotol: Not Technically Agave, But Definitely Indigenous
Sotol (SOH-tohl) is often grouped with agave spirits, but here’s the twist: it’s not made from agave at all. Sotol comes from the Dasylirion plant, also known as the desert spoon, which is part of the asparagus family. Native to northern Mexico—specifically Chihuahua, Durango, and Coahuila—sotol has been made by Indigenous peoples like the Rarámuri for hundreds of years.
A Botanical Distinction:
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Plant: Dasylirion wheeleri and related species, which take 12–15 years to mature.
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Harvesting: Wild-harvested from desert landscapes; the heart of the plant is roasted underground, much like agave.
Flavor Profile:
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Taste: Grassy, peppery, and minerally with a dry, elegant finish. Some expressions show wildflower and eucalyptus notes.
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Production: Like mezcal, sotol is roasted in earthen pits, fermented naturally, and distilled in small copper stills.
Sotol has DO status, but the category is still largely under the radar—making it a favorite among adventurous spirits enthusiasts and bartenders looking for the next frontier.
Why These Spirits Matter
Each of these spirits represents more than just a drink. They are:
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Cultural artifacts passed down through Indigenous and rural communities.
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Expressions of terroir, shaped by local plant species, water, soil, and climate.
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Resistance and resilience stories, with many producers overcoming prohibition, regulation, and economic hardship.
And as global interest in craft and authenticity grows, these regional spirits are finding new audiences who value their depth and story just as much as their flavor.
How to Explore Them
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Start with small-batch producers that prioritize traditional methods and transparency.
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Try a tasting flight of raicilla, bacanora, and sotol to experience the range—from smoky to herbal to grassy.
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Sip neat in a copita or clay cup to truly appreciate the aroma and texture.
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Visit local mezcalerías or agave bars with knowledgeable staff who can guide your journey.
Brands to look out for include:
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La Venenosa Raicilla
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Cielo Rojo Bacanora
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Sotol Por Siempre
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Flor del Desierto
The Future of Agave’s Wild Cousins
As mezcal has surged into global popularity, the door is now open for the lesser-known agave and desert spirits to follow. But the challenge lies in preserving the traditions and landscapes that make these spirits special. Wild harvesting and over-commercialization threaten the sustainability of these cultural treasures.
Supporting small producers, respecting traditional methods, and sipping with awareness can help ensure that raicilla, bacanora, and sotol continue to thrive—not just as trendy spirits, but as living expressions of Mexico’s diverse and resilient heritage.
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